Behind the initial aloof appearance of historical site, Essaouira is a secret town that is not limited to a holiday catalogue.
The Gnaoua are ancient descendants of original slaves from sub-Saharan Africa. Their traditions, which are musical, spiritual and therapeutic, mix African and Arabo-Berber influences. At the start of the summer, and for the last ten years, Essaouira has been the host of a remarkable and edifying music festival dedicated to these mystical fraternities.
A fifteen-minute boat ride will take you close to the two Mogador islands, which are a true link between the ocean and the continent, but you are not allowed to disembark: it is a protected bird sanctuary. It is possible to observe the flight of Eleonora's falcon. These islands, which were used by the Phoenicians as a stopover, housed a purple dye production workshop at the start of the Christian era.
The old Jewish quarter, the mellah, is located in the north-eastern part of the old town. Its size shows that the Jewish community was very large in the 18th century and that the communities lived in harmony in Essaouira. The restoration of this quarter is one of the local priorities. The souk's alleyways lead you to Moulay El Hassan square and its cafés, whilst walking through the boutiques, in particular those of the famous cabinet-makers that work remarkably with the wood of the sandarac tree.
Everything that relates to the argan oil trade, from the processing of the argan nuts to the marketing, is in the hands of women's cooperatives. If you visit one of these cooperatives, these women will explain their work with great pride. In Essaouira, they always wear the white haik, a long piece of material that covers the body gracefully.
Essaouira is an unusual and secret town that allows itself to be discovered by those that want to understand it better. Many surprises can be expected.